This soap is sized for a 2.5 Pound Tall and Skinny Mini Basic Mold.
You can resize it using a lye calculator for whichever mold works
for you. As requested, the formula includes percentages for your

Soap Recipe

2.5 oz Apricot Kernel Oil (8.2% of the oils)

2 oz Castor Oil (6.6% of the oils)

8 oz Coconut Oil (26.2% of the oils)

9 oz Olive Oil (29.5% of the oils)

8 oz Palm Oil (26.2% of the oils)

1 oz Sunflower Seed Oil (3.3% of the oils)

4.3 oz Sodium Hydroxide (5% superfat)

10.07 oz Liquid (I use 7.07oz Distilled water
and 3 oz Coconut milk, which makes a 30% lye
solution total)

Fragrance Oil Used

1.5 oz of Tea Tree Essential Oil

This essential oil is from Bramble Berry, but feel free to
use any fragrances or essential oils that your heart desires.

Colorants Used

1.5 tsp Activated Charcoal

1.5 tsp Hydrated Chrome Green

0.5 tsp Titanium Dioxide (Oil Dispersible)

Additional Ingredients Used

2 tsp Kaolin Clay (Bramble Berry)

2 tsp Sodium Lactate (Bramble Berry)


Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until
the lye has completely dissolved and your solution is clear.

Weigh out your soaping oils and set aside. I like to do these steps
first to allow time for my lye solution and oils to cool down.

(Soaping at a cooler temperatures will allow you more room to play
with swirling techniques.

I recommend soaping around room temperature 100 F.

Once your lye solution has cooled, add 2 teaspoons of Sodium Lactate
and stir to dissolve. Sodium Lactate is a liquid solution that helps
produce a harder bar of cold process soap and aids in the unmolding
process. It should be used at a usage rate of 1 teaspoon per pound
of oils.

To premix your colorants, use 1 tablespoon of a light liquid oil like
sweet almond oil or apricot kernel oil per 1 teaspoon of mica.
(Or use 1 tablespoon of oils from your soapmaking oils, if you prefer
not to add additional oil to your recipe!)

For this recipe, mix the activated charcoal with 1.5 tablespoon of oil,
1 teaspoon of Hydrated Chrome Green with 1 tablespoon of oil and finally,
combine 1/2 tsp Hydrated Chrome Green and 1/2 teaspoon of Titanium Dioxide
with 1 Tablespoon of oil.

Measure out your fragrance. I like to incorporate the kaolin clay with my
Fragrance oil to help anchor the scent and to add slip to my soaps.


Once your oils have cooled, place your stick blender into the oils and burp
it to release any air bubbles. Slowly add your lye solution to your oils and
stick blend until emulsified. Once emulsified, I like to add the coconut milk
into batter and pulse to just combined.


Divide a portion of your batter into two additional containers while reserving
a larger portion in the main bowl. The large portion will be colored using the
activated charcoal, while the other two will be colored green and light green
respectively. Once your containers have reached a uniform color, hand stir in
the fragrance oil.

Next, using the black pot as your base soap, we are going to do an in the pot
swirl. Using the darker green, pour it in 3 spots around the outside of the
bowl, then pour the lighter green in 4 spots in the center.

You can pour the colors randomly into the pot, but I like to have a bit more
control. If you want to mimic the swirl I did on the top of the soap batch,
reserve a tiny bit of each color for the end. Swirl the colors separately in
the pot and pour it into the mold.


After tapping down your mold to release any trapped air bubbles, scrape out any
of the remaining batter into your mold. Using the remainder of the light green
batter, dot it down the center of the mold, then add the darker green randomly
on top, followed by the black. Taking a skewer, swirl the colors together without
over mixing.

Spritz the top of your activated charcoal and tea tree soap with isopropyl alcohol
to help avoid soda ash and insulate for 24 hours. Carefully remove from the mold
and cut into bars, allowing the soap to cure for 4-6 weeks.

Activated Charcoal and Tea Tree Soap Recipe